It's a beautiful at-a-glance weather display, sitting right by the front door - which is especially useful in my neck of the woods where the forecast can change at a moment's notice. That said, I'm pleased with how it came out. It would also be a good idea to make room for a motion sensor that could turn the display on and off, though the panel itself doesn't draw that much power. If I were to repeat the project, I'd likely build a separate front panel with greater depth behind it, and allow space for a back panel to cover up the backlight, which currently bleeds out, as well as hide the cables away. The hardest part of this project was probably building the frame, and I think I could have done better. If you have no comma or a mismatched brace, you'll get errors. Just remember that each module config is surround by curly braces, and requires a comma in between. Additional modules will provide their own documentation and example config blocks. You start off with a smattering of default modules, and the syntax to adjust their position and settings should be obvious. Once completed, log in from a remote machine using SSH and edit the config files: cd MagicMirror/config/ĭon't be daunted by the code in this file - it's mostly just blank space! Once it is all done, it should launch directly into the default layout. While it's possible to use a Pi Zero or Zero W, it's considerably more work.Īt some point it'll ask you if you want to auto-start the Magic Mirror, and you probably do. If this fails, you're likely not using a Raspberry Pi 2 or 3. In the command line, enter: bash -c " $(curl -sL )"Īnd let it work its magic. This is the main controller board:ĭon't worry if you've never used a Raspberry Pi before - our unofficial guide covers everything you need to know. When your board arrives, you won't find a single controller board: likely you'll have a separate inverter (for LCDs, which require a high voltage), a board with buttons on for input control, and possibly a remote control receiver board (optional). You'll also need a power supply for the driver board: 12v 4a is recommended, which should set you back around $10. If in doubt, take a picture of the label and send it to the seller, most will be happy to advise if you're buying the right item, or point you in the direction of the correct board if not. You can find a reference list of manufacturers and their codes here.Įxpect to pay around $20-$30 for a suitable driver board, the top end being boards with a HDMI connector, the cheaper end being just VGA. B is the manufacturer - AU Optronics - though this is also explicitly written below the model number so nothing surprising here. You can tell a little about the board just by glancing at the codes: Adding to the mountain of e-waste is something you should aim to avoid. Of course, where's the fun in that? Part of my motivation in doing this is to make good use of something that would otherwise have ended up in the trash, regardless of whether it costs a little more or not. A cursory glance through the "ending soonest" listings of eBay shows some 17-inch ex-office monitors going for less than $15. Once you factor in the additional $30-$40 for extra parts, it may be cheaper just to buy a fully functional old monitor at auction. Annoyingly, the controller board must also be precisely matched to your panel. In order to use that panel, you need a controller board made by a third party, which converts a standard HDMI signal into one suitable for that display. Unlike a ready-made monitor which just plugs into HDMI, the LCD or LED panel inside your laptop will have had a signal directly from the laptop's motherboard. Before you start, I should note that counterintuitively, it's not always cost-effective to try and rescue a panel from a laptop, since you need to find a suitable driver board and power supply.
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